The Inaccessible Pinnacle Skye, round 3 - The Prize.
Day one.
I had had news that I would be having the operation to fuse my right wrist together on the 18th of August 2010 and didn't think I could climb the In Pinn after that in my 50th year. I contacted Tony Hanley early one morning hoping to catch him before he went out. Oops he was still in his bed, he'd been out on the bash the night before lol. Any way I explained to Tony about me going into hospital on the 18th and could he fit me in before then. He was taking a party next weekend 7th or 8th of August 2010, I could just tag along with them, great. All down to the damn weather of course. The plan was to go to Skye after work on the Friday 6th and if I could get away sharp all the better.
Camping at Sligachan again. Friday the 6th came and we set off around 4pm for Skye heading over the Lecht and on to Inverness on quite a tight timetable as it would be dark around 10pm . Got on to the A9 heading north from Carbridge and road works. They were putting in a overtaking lane and the traffic was at a stand still. Sat there for about 30 minutes till they tarred a bit in the middle of the road. Just what we needed.
Eventually they let us through the road works and on to Inverness . Headed down by Loch Ness to Inver Morison and the road to Skye. The rain started and bucketed it down all through Glen Sheil absolutely piddling it down. Just what you want for camping, "not"! As we passed Cluanie Inn there was a chap trying to thumb a lift, just caught him out of the corner of my eye as we went past in the now torrential rain. I had ended up in a convoy of 4 cars and couldn't stop for the poor guy. Don't know where we'd have put him as the back of the car was full with camping gear etc.
When we got onto Skye it was still raining hard, this would be fun putting up a tent in the p***ing rain, so it was a relief when we got to the camp site as the rain had stopped. I found a spot for the tent and put it up. Now the bold me had taken a double blow up lilo which fitted very snugly into my trusty old tent and of course I had to blow it up.
I got into the tent with the foot pump and started pumping away inside the tent unfortunately as I was pumping my back side was rising up and down against the out side of the tent. This apparently caused a couple to stop and look at this small tent going up and down in a rhythmic motion. I have no idea what they were thinking (MUCH). It took me about 15 minutes to get the lilo blown up to some kind of useable state and by this time I was boiling hot with a bright red face, so when I emerged from the tent with a bright red face I just don't what those people were thinking!!!
What was worse is that when I went to go and sleep on the lilo I didn't like it so I let all the air out and used it like a ground mat, much more comfortable lol. Tent up and the warden paid we went over to the bar for a pint of course.
I had texted Tony to let him know I was here and would meet him at the memorial hut in Glen Brittle the next morning at 9.30 ish.
What is it about campsites? another snore alot here to keeping me from sleeping and of course the bloody midge were at it as usual.
Midge net at the ready I got up and made my way to the shower block to be attacked on the throne again - this is getting repetitive - little sods with big teeth.
Got the breakfast made and a piece and coffee for the climb into the rucksack. Left the tent up as we were staying for two nights, set off for Glen Brittle.
Got to the hut in Glen Brittle and there were two families here waiting for Tony. Ian's and Bill's + one other woman who's name I can't remember. Introduced myself to them and said I would be tagging along. They had camped at Glen Brittle camp site.
Tony arrived and sorted out what gear every one would be needing, harnesses and climbing hats. I had my own which I was going to use. Now I think it was Bill had forgotten to bring climbing boots and only had shoes. I offered him my spare pair of size 11,s but he had size 14 feet so no good. He just opted to climb in a pair of shoes.
There were 3 teenagers with us too, two girls and a boy, a fair, old party then.
The only way from here is up again. Kitted out Tony led the way and I tucked in behind him at his nice steady pace as he likes to call it. The young girls soon slowed that down.
The start of the walk heading for the shoulder in the middle.
We made not too bad progress along the path which climbs steadily to the shoulder and then gets much steeper. After a while the woman whose name I can't remember dropped out and decided it was not for her and went back to the camp site for the day.
The rest of us carried on to the shoulder.
The shoulder, and as you can see from the photo this is where things get steeper. Just near the top of the first pointy bit is a chimney you have to scramble up through, found it easy this time and we were soon all up past it. Stopped for a fly cup and something to eat just after that. There was another guide leading a party of 4 blokes up and they caught up with us. Tony seemed to let them get ahead as to time it so they would be on the pinn as we arrived. I spoke to one of them who was sweating a lot, he said " I have been having nightmares about this climb for two weeks". But he was determined to climb the Pinn.
The other party just ahead of us.
After our fly cup we set off up and the climb flattened out a bit, but not for long and then it gets rocky.
Scrambling ahead. Just ahead where it gets steeper is where we were stopped in April by the ice, not this time though. Tony led us up to the scrambling which was quite easy really with no ice to slip on.
You can just see the Great Stone chute in the distance, this is were we stopped last time. A wee bit of a drop as you go along here.
Tony led us along the side of Sgurr Deag which is pretty rocky with big drops so you have to do a bit of scrambling along here.
The gang making its way along the side of Sgurr Dearg.
A couple of interesting bits along the side of here, could be a bit hairy for anyone who didn't like heights.Show you on the way back down pics.
We were into the mist now but had our Guide to lead us. All of a sudden the In Pinn loomed up in front of us, woo hoo.
We dropped the packs and got harnesses on, Tony fixing slings to our harness for extra safety. None of the ladies were coming up it would just be Bill, Ian, his son and me doing the climb. From the top of Sgurr Deag down to the base of the Pinn is very steep but not impossible. Would have been nice to have had a pole to steady myself on the way down.
The other party were already at the base as we set off.
I'm afraid so - you have to go down there, the photo makes it look worse than it is. No I am kidding it's dead steep. Wouldn't have liked to go down there in the ice. You would have had to abseil it. When we reached the bottom the other party were started their climb and Tony got sorted out with a rope while the others made their ascent.
Me with Tony in yellow behind me and the other party heading up here.
Tony started getting his rope ready making loops every so often to tie us in to. Ian's son was put at the very end of the rope or last as Tony said "I put the best climber here". I joked with Bill and Ian " I wonder who will be the worst at the front of the rope?" And guess who it was, I, me lol. After the others had cleared the first pitch as it's climbed in two pitches Tony set off up to get the rope anchored with the four of us tied in waiting.
Tony setting off up the Pinn.
Follow that rope up.
The very first bit is near vertical but with good hand and feet holds. Tony shouted for me to start climbing and I rattled up the first section no bother at all closely followed by Bill, Ian and his son. As you come up you have to take a right turn over a bit and then left to keep on the climbing track. I came to the worst bit where you have to scramble a vertical piece about 10 foot high with a few ledges, I managed to get my knee on to a ledge above me and up I went only to get told off from Tony for using my knee, anyway I got up and had to stop for Bill, now if you remember size fourteen feet and wearing shoes. Bill had ground to a halt not being able to get a grip anywhere with his shoes. A wee pit of panic in his face Tony started to bawl at him to try and encourage him to get up the tricky bit. Tony said to me " You have to move over a bit in case I have to go back down for him". I was quite happy sitting where I was and had room to move over to let Tony down past. A lot of encouragement from Tony and Bill managed to scramble up but the other two breezed it with boots on. All stopped on a ledge Tony locked us in to a sling, small 1000 + foot drop behind us.
Looking down you can just make out the bottom.
Tony climbed up the second pitch and shouted for me to come up. This bits a breeze, its a bit like a ladder and you soon rattle up to the top.
The second pitch.
We were all up at the top now and Tony sat us down till he set up his abseil.
The others at the top of The Inaccessible Pinnacle.
Me on the Inaccessible Pinnacle.
The only way is down now by abseil, there are a few who go back down the way we came up but I don't fancy that much. Ian's son was hooked up first for the abseil. Tony lowering him down all the way to the bottom.
Ian's son starting down on the rope.
Some people climb up this way. If you don't like exposure to big drops this would be the way to come up but its a vertical rock climb to the top.
Tony hooked me up next for the abseil to the bottom.
That's my big backside facing you and part of the abseil or climb down but as you can see not all of it. The Skye guides maintain a chain round the base of the big stone for everyone so don't worry if your coming up here on your tod and looking for an anchor as it's permanent. Tony lowered me down to the bottom and I unhooked the rope. Good fun coming down the rock face you just walk down leaning back in the harness.
Ian and Bill came down soon after followed by Tony abseiling down.
Now the ladies had been sitting at the top of Sgurr Dearg in the mist and had got cold I had to lend Giovanna my spare fleece and my gloves out of my pack to get warmed up. Had a food break before we set off back down. Tony told me. "You could easily climb that yourself without a guide". I might have a go some day. Of course it's better when you know there is a rope attached to you. Headed back down the same way we had come up along the scramble of Sgurr Deag.
The way down. There is another way back down a stone chute into Corie Lagan if you don't fancy this way. Quite an easy walk down only thing I had taken my old boots which have softer soles and was feeling the rocks under my feet quite badly by the time we got back to the hut in Glen Brittle.
Kept the best photo for last.
The little stick figure near the top is me on The Inaccessible Pinnacle, Skye.
You can see the bad bit just below the second figure that Bill got stuck at.
People have nightmares about this climb but I did not find it all that bad. Heights don't bother me that much. I think all the hype about it makes it worse than it actually is. If you are not comfortable with the exposure up the long side get a guide to take you up the short steep side. If I come on a bit I think is too bad when I am out walking Ill look for another way round if there is one or abseil.
Brian got up to climb it in October 2010 on his own with Tony and did three routes up as they had plenty of time and it was a nice day. If you want to see Brian's photos of the In Pinn go here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/44907198@N00/5097637541/in/set-72157625203172046/
Graham has still to get up to date. I'm sure Brian and myself will drag him up here soon. Hopefully with Mike his brother too.
Please leave comments.
Next blog , day two in Skye, Sgurr Nan Gillian climb coming in a while.
Hope my 2 1/2 fans like this rubbish I write.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dino60/sets/72157623623376885/ my Skye photos.Dino60
It's pretty good rubbish though. Nice one!
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