Ben More Mull 966m

Ben More, Mull 966m

July 2008

"Oh" it's by ferry again as it's an island.

 I had wanted to go to Mull for a while to get Ben More bagged. We decided to make it a family holiday and go camping, but the kids did not want to go, not cool for 2 teenagers - so Plan B bribe them with a promise of £50 each if they came they changed their minds. This was going to be an expensive trip lol. We borrowed a big 4 man tent from our friends and set off for mull via Fort William with the intention of getting the ferry from Lochaline as it was a shorter trip than the ferry from Oban and a damn sight cheaper - it's only 30 minutes or so across to Sgeil Mhor jetty on Mull. We planned to spend 2 nights camping on Mull. Usual route to Fort William from Alford over the Lecht to Aviemore and along by Loch Lagging to Spean Bridge and onto Fort William. Then taking the Mallaig road to the end of Loch Eil where we took the A861 heading south to Lochaline. Stopped off for a break a mile or so down the road beside the shore for a run about on the beach.

   I got a call on the mobile from an insurance company just then about an accident I had witnessed at Lonenwell garage as you come into Alford the day before. It can be a busy garage and the woman in front of me had turned half across the other side of the road, busy looking at where she would be going into the garage not looking at what was coming till too late. She slammed on her brakes halfway across the road when she realised that there was a car heading for her. The young lad did well to miss her but in doing so had jigged into the garage forecourt at speed glancing off a parked car with a big bang of bending metal before coming to a stop. Now the next thing we saw was the owner of the garage's head pop up from inside the parked car that just got hit, as he had been doing some work on the side that got hit, with a look of what the ????  was that on his face he may have had to change his trousers after that.

  We followed the single track road down past Corran where there is a small car ferry you can come across on if you don't want to take the road all the way round.

  Further down the road you can take the B8043 or stay on the A861 along Glen Tarbert to the junction with the A884 heading for Lochaline. Single track most of the way. We arrived at the ferry which you did not have to book  just turn up and join the queue. Not many cars there and we were near the head of the queue, didn't have to wait long to get onto the next ferry and we were soon sailing to
Mull.

                                          On the ferry heading for Mull it didn't take long to get across to Mull.

Disembarked and headed for the campsite at Balmeanach in a wood which isn't far from the ferry terminal. I had booked the site before coming just incase they were full.

  The woman directed us to the bottom of the site past a few gas midge burners on the way down but none down here! Anyway we got the tent set up as it was not a bad day and set off exploring  in the general direction of Ben More. By the time we arrived at the base of Ben More it was about 4pm in the afternoon as it was still a nice day we decided that we would all go to the top.

Plan B again. After chatting to a guy  coming down he reckoned we would need 3 hours up and 2-1/2ish down. I reckoned that it could be dark by the time we all went up and down so it was decided that I would go on my own and the others would go exploring.  We had seen a restaurant  back a bit so they could go there for their tea.

I would have to leg it up and down before dark taking route one straight up and down rather that the round trip by Beinn Fhada that you can do.

On my way up from Dhisheig looking over Loch Na Keal. Most of the people I met were all coming back down by this time. After about 1.5km you cross over the Abhainn Dhiseig heading up not too steep here and a steady walk. As you will see in the next photo that would soon change.

The path more or less follows the Abhainn Dhiseig most of the way up to near the top.

First view of the summit as I climbed up.

Path going off to the right.
Met a few of the locals just after this.

Onward and up ward beginning to get steeper now but not too bad a path as you climb up. The views on a clear day get better as you climb letting you see quite a distance.

I stopped around here for my tea nothing fancy for me just a few biscuits and crisps I had thrown into the piece box but they filled a hole.

I had sat on one of those mats you can buy for a few quid and when I stood up to start up again the wind nabbed it and bye bye mat. It's probably still on the hill yet unless someone found it. 20 minutes further up the path and I got the first view of the summit with a steep climb ahead. Getting a wee bit weary now as I had been pushing myself up the hill to get up and down before dark.

Onward and upward as they say. Gets a bit rockier as you hit the first big bump ahead with the last bit being the steepest just to totally cream cracker you.


I had climbed up the 966m in about 2, 1/2 hours not bad going for me, it's a nice sight when you get over that final rise and the cairn is in sight ahead.

The summit of Ben More ahead.

 When I reached the summit a couple of others came up from the north they had taken the route up Beinn Fhada which by their account is quite interesting in places. A drink and something to eat as you do at the top of hills.

Took a few pictures at the summit of the other route up, all these photos were taken on my phone so their not that great resolution.

A 360 look clockwise round from the top of Ben More in the next 12 pictures.

 Beinn Fhada and Loch Na Keal.

The ridge up by A'Chioch to the summit of Ben Hope.

A'Chioch 867m. I think you have to go to the top of it then drop back down to get up here.

Looking out to the east from the summit of Ben Hope.

Ben Buie 717m in the distance, If you have a look at the bottom you can just make out what looks like a twisting river, that's the twisting and approx 32 mile road to get the ferry to Iona and it was single track with lots of potholes. More about it later.

Looking out over Maol nan Damh 650m to the south west and a bit more of the Iona road.

Loch Scridain in the distance.

Ardmeanach and loch Scridain off to the west.

West with the sun reflecting off the sea.

The way back down.

Back to Loch Na Keal

Pictures taken it was time to get down to the beach and hope the others had come back.

An hour later and I was well down the path heading back down the side of the  Abhainn Dhiseig

The path down ahead, the midges were starting to come out now as the wind had dropped and there were rain clouds coming in.
The rain started as I neared the road chucked on the waterproof gear and turned to get a view of Ben More in the dusk.

Last view of Ben More not long after this it disappeared into the rain clouds. Down on the road and no sign of the others so I took refuge on some rocks away from the midge. Little buggers were out in force after the rain so midge net on. Another one of the locals came strolling down the road while I was waiting.

 I could see light coming along the road a good way off and hoped it was the others. Sat for a good 1/2 hour before they arrived. Glad to get into the car away from the midge. Headed back to the campsite or midge heaven as we were to find out. The toilet down by us was a dry toilet in a small wooden shed, but as there were just us and one other that night it was quite empty. Smelled lovely too.

There was a shower up at the house but you had to book a time if I remember right.

The restaurant the others had gone to was very expensive so they only chose soup or a starter but still better than my biscuits and crisps up the hill though. Into the tent and fell asleep.

Day two on Mull.

We had decided to go to Iona the only thing was it's about 32 miles away down a twisty road and then another ferry crossing but it lasted just about 10 min though. 

  Up sharp and breakfasted as the lady at the campsite said we would be better getting on the first ferry as it can get quite busy.  It's a long twisty single track road with passing places and some nice scenery but you think it will never end ! Ben More was covered in cloud today so I was glad that I had climbed it yesterday. Took a good while to get to the ferry terminal at Fionnphort and we were early as it had not opened yet, so killed time by getting some hot food - great, I do like to try out the food when I am on holiday. We left the car and just went over as foot passengers to Iona, there were quite a few on the boat on the way over.

There is a lot of history attached to Iona going back to St Columba and the famous Abbey. A few wee hills you can climb too. We just did the tourist bits round the Abbey and gardens. While looking round the gardens I got eyed up by a chap, must have been my smart attire lol. Gave the others a laugh though. The Abbey is a religious retreat that you can stay at if you're so inclined.

Some of the sights on the island.

Celtic stones.

I'll put some more of the photos from Iona on Flicker follow link.

Link to photos on Flicker
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dino60/sets/72157629854679193/

  The Abbey

After a good rake around and a few hours we decided to head back to the ferry terminal. Score! a nice big cafe just beside the terminal and it was around 12.30ish.

They had liver and mash which I had not had for a few years. Shovelled it down while watching the ferry come over. So after a quick look round Iona and fed (the important bit) we walked down to catch the ferry back to Mull. There were other boats there taking tours to Fingles cave but didn't seem to be many takers. 32 miles back to the campsite on that single track road, bump, bump, bump most of the way.
  We decided to go to Tobermory to play spot the Balamoray houses and a walk on the pier. When we got to Tobermory I decided to get some diesel for the car as we would not have enough to get us back to Fort William. Now I think it was around £1.32 a ltr at home or less but here £1.51 in 2008 I would dread to think what they have to pay now. Just put enough in to get back to Fort William.

It's a very colourful town now famous for the BBC Balamory tv programme.

If you have kids or just liked the programme you might recognise the houses in the next 3 photos.

You might not recognise them as they have been painted different colours since the programme finished.

A list from Wickapedia.

Character	Actor	Role	House
Miss Hoolie	Julie Wilson Nimmo	Nursery teacher	Green house
Archie	Miles Jupp	Inventor	Pink castle
Josie Jump	Buki Akib; replaced by Kasia Haddad in 2005	Fitness instructor	Three-storey yellow house
Edie McCredie	Juliet Cadzow	Bus driver	Blue garage/house
PC Plum	Andrew Agnew	Policeman	White and black police station
Spencer	Rodd Christensen	Painter/Musician	Orange house
Suzie Sweet	Mary Riggans	Shop and café workers	Red building

 We had a walk along the pier to try out the famous fish and chip van, yes eating again but it was after 5pm now. I didn't think the fish and chips were that great but the others did.

The harbour at Tobermory.

After Tobermory we headed to Derveig to look for the world's smallest theatre but it was shut. A local told us all about it.

Back to the camp site after a day touring the island.
A Transit van arrived  pulling a trailer followed by a car and started putting up a couple of big tents down where we were. Luxury camping did you say - when they got the tents up full size mattresses came out of the van plus duvets and pillows and table and chairs to sit on. They were a "large" family. They even had their dressing gowns and slippers  even teddy bears for the kids. Camping home from home you could say. We spent the evening watching them in amazement as they unloaded all their kit. While warding off the damn midge!

Day 3 heading home.

  Well I have only see Midge so bad once before on Skye in 1976 ferocious little buggers so the kids took refuge in the car while we took the tent down with our gloves and midge nets on too. Meanwhile the "large" family were walking about outside seemingly unaffected by the midge!  Last trip to the chemical toilet before we left and with more people down here now it had been filled near to the top overnight and smelled b****y foul now - glad we were leaving. Car packed we left for the ferry terminal a few miles down the road to get the first ferry across at 8.30 we were first in the queue too. No midge down here. Had to wait a while for the terminal to open but when it did it served bacon rolls and tea and coffee etc.

I'm beginning to think this is a food blog - lol.

The guy that sold the tickets did the cooking too but he didn't cut the fat off the bacon, that bacon roll came back on me half the day but the tea was okay.
A few folk were waiting as the ferry came in.

The Loch Fyne ferry coming into the terminal.

A nice day now and we were off sailing back to Loch Alainn.

The sound of Mull

Didn't take long to get across and we were soon heading north on the A844 single track road with the plan of taking a different road back to Fort William.
We came down by Loch Sunart to Glen Tarbert

Loch Sunart.

Turning left at the junction heading for Salen and the road to Kilchoan.

This being the A861 it's a single track road and quite twisty too.

We got to the B8007 to Kilchoan,  I have never been on a road like it - single track twisting up and down it was like being on a roller coaster. After about 5 miles we came to a lay-by and pulled in for a break.

It was decided not to go down this roller coaster any further and head back to the A861.

A grand run up through Moidart to Lochailort and the Maliaig road to Fort William. Great scenery along this road and two lanes after a bit. Seemed like a motorway after the B8007.

Onto the A890 heading to Fort William, a nice wide road. After a few miles we came on a fire engine with the fire men putting out a fire beside the railway track. A spark from the steam engine that runs from Fort William to Malaig had started a fire beside the track. When we got to Fort William we went in to a restaurant/bar  just as you come into Fort William not that great I will say and expensive too. Can't remember the name of it but I will not be going back in a hurry.

Had a run up to the ski centre to get a picture of Ben Nevis and a rake about in the shop.

Ben Nevis.

Headed for home after here.

The End

Dino 60