30 SECONDS OF FAME

THE BROTHERS, GLEN SHEIL

   I had planned a wee walking holiday in April 2011, a trip to Glen Sheil and a stay in the Cluanie Inn. We had driven past the Inn many times and always fancied staying there. I asked Brian and his wife if they fancied going and after checking with his wife he was all for it. Graham couldn't manage this trip. So there would be the 4 of us Brian and his wife and me and my wife. I called the hotel and booked their two best rooms, a wee bit more expensive but what the heck, it was to be a holiday and I like melting the credit card now and again. Lol.

  I arranged all the rooms for us and we were booked to stay the night of 11th April. I should have learned my lesson about booking rooms in April after our Inn Pin trip to Skye. More later.  It was arranged that Brian would drive up to Glen Sheil in his ever faithful Passatt but did he not go and buy a new Passatt a couple of days before, so he did not want to clock up too many miles on the old car. It was decided I would take my car but it would be a slower journey in my trusty diesel Fiesta. 0-60 eventually -especially with 4 adults and luggage on board.

We would leave in the afternoon as we wanted to arrive in the evening and its about a 3 to 3-1/2 hour drive.

   The day came and I picked up Brian and his wife and we all set off. As you know I am a bit of a skinflint sometimes so I had planned to take the A96 north to Inverness as the diesel was 3p a litre cheaper at Keith at the Shell filling station. Well I had that expensive room to pay for and I'd save about 60p on fuel. We got to Keith in about an hour, the A96 can be a busy road and single carriage way so there are few places to over take. I filled up at the Shell station and planned to take the A95 to miss out Fochabers as they were building a by-pass at the time. Damn road was closed so we had to go to Fochabers.  We got through the roadworks in not bad time, bit when they had the traffic lights on the roadworks it was taking forever to get through.  Onward to Elgin, now before you come to Elgin there is Lhanbryde and it has a by-pass. Now there was a big tractor a few cars in front of us holding up traffic so the wee light bulb turned on in my head and decided that if we actually went through Lhanbryde I would come out in front of the tractor, great laid plans of mice and men as they say. So at the roundabout it was straight ahead for the by-pass and right to go through  Lhanbryde.  As I turned right on the roundabout and  having right of way a 45 tonne artic tried to pull up to give way to me. When he finally stopped  we were level with the middle off his 40foot trailer. I had stopped half way round the roundabout as he came out in front of me.  A rather rattled looking driver looked back at me and waved before he pulled off out of our path, with qiute a few comments coming from our car. So I drove through Lhanbryde a bit quieter than the A96  without any more incidents, and when we got to the roundabout at the other end of the by-pass the tractor had long gone through and we were about 10 cars behind it now.  

   It took about 2 and a 1/2 hour to get to Inverness and a pitstop at Tiso's  for the cafe and loos. It pays to know where all the loos are, and it was nice to sit down and have a cup of tea. It's not the cheapest cafe and I don't think Tiso's run it but it's in an easy place to get to and has a car park only problem being you have to go west to go east to get to it and east to go west when you leave - all to do with where the roundabouts are.   Refreshed from our pitstop at Tiso we set off east to go west  and back to the A82 south onto the Fort William road, down the shore of Loch Ness, no sign of Nessie that day. We had managed to miss the rush hour in Inverness but there were a few tourists about on the A82. One in particular was giving me a headache just before  Drumnadrochit going 30mph looking at the loch and waving about all over the road. Best thing that happened was when he spotted Urquhart Castle and he had to pull over to have a look. Big mistake there as he mounted a big kerb with a bang, probably had a square wheel and flat tyre after that, anyway he was out of our road and I could now get up to a blistering 40mph-ish.  We followed the road to Invermoriston and took the A877 west heading for Glen Sheil. Takes about 40  minutes to one hour to get to the hotel and had the road more or less to ourselves all the way to the hotel. The hotel is surrounded by Munros and there was lovely fresh west coast mountain air when we got out of the car.

 The Cluanie Inn

Brian's photo

  It was evening now and we went in to the hotel to check in. We had taken the room with a 4 poster bed and a jacuzzi  in the bathroom, Brian and his wife had a separate sauna and jacuzzi in their bathroom. Brian's room had a wall mirror behind the bed and I kidded him on it was the honeymoon suite.

Our room

 Brian's photo of their room.

We got settled into our nice rooms and met up in the bar for tea and a few pints of course. We all enjoyed our meals with some nice Guinness for me to wash it down. After tea as it was getting late we retired to our respective rooms.

  Now you probably will not believe this I have been plumbing on and off since I started as a apprentice in 1976  but have never been in a Jacuzzi up till now. Fitted plenty of them just never got into one. Quite enjoyed the Jacuzzi but wouldn't rave about it. Usual stuff in the room t.v, coffee and tea with a few biscuits which we scoffed.  Our room was stuck out from the south of the hotel and we had views to the south and west where as Brian's only had a view to the west. After dark we had happened to look out the window and there was a herd of deer grazing just outside the window, tried to get a few photos but none came out that well. The four poster was very comfortable and we slept well through the night. In the morning when we looked out the tops of the mountains were white with snow, great! That's what I meant about booking a hotel in April earlier - you just never know what the weather will be like.

The morning view to the west.

Nothing for it but to go for breakfast.

  We got in for breakfast between 7 - 7.30 am. Full Scottish breakfast of course as you do when you're away in a hotel, you could have whatever kind of eggs you liked with your breakfast. Well I like poached eggs and was first to order, this started a trend as Brian and a woman sitting at the next table to him decided to order poached eggs after hearing what I had ordered.  Chef must have been really happy. There also were a couple of road workers up here filling in all the potholes after the winter staying at the hotel so they were in for breakfast as well.

  After breakfast I went down to the car and got the winter gear on for our climb. Brian and I would be going up while the ladies were off exploring around Loch Duich and Plockton for the day ( where Hamish Macbeth was filmed ).

   Brian and I got our photo taken outside the hotel all kitted up ready to go on the hills for the day.

 Brian's photo

Full waterproof gear for this one and we would need it later on.

We said goodbye to the ladies as they were going to settle the bill and pack up the car a bit later.

The Brothers + 1 lay ahead, 4 Munros was the plan for the day 1 out on it's own and then 3 on a ridge.

Brian and I headed across the road and started up the track on An Caorann Beag. The weather at the moment was good, a nice clear day with the sun shining down on us.

Brian at the start of An Caorann Beag looking back to the Cluanie Inn and the south Glen Sheil ridge in the back ground.

  There was a good Landrover track at the start of the glen leading up to where they seemed to be putting in a couple of giant water tanks, I assume for the hotel.

An Caorann Beag

It was a steady climb up through here and we made quite good time but after the Landrover track finished it was mostly bog trot along the path. Just after we got on the path we found near enough every time you put you foot down something would shoot off from around it. It turned out to be voles, because of the heavy snow through the winter it was ideal breeding conditions for them as the snow acted as an insulator and boy had they bred.  It was something like if there were normally 1,000,000 of them there were 15,000,000 this year.  They were absolutely everywhere. Saw Brian jump a couple of times when he put his foot down and something scampered off.

  The path follows the burn, the Allt a' Chaorainn Bhig  more or less up to a col and is  pretty boggy in places.

Brian with our first Munro for the day Ciste Dhubh 979m covered in snow behind him. You will see what looks like a wall at the end of the glen just below the snow line a good bit steeper of a climb up there.

Me in the same place sun shining and quite warm.

Brian and I forged ahead to the col and climbed up on to a small plateau which was really boggy. The weather had changed now and snow showers were starting to blow through.

Brian on the small plateau checking the map with the first steep ascent of Ciste Dhubh in the distance.

It was quite slippy on the snow covered grass as we made our way up the south face which you see in the photo above.

Levels off a bit after you're over the top with a couple of spot heights till you reach the summit.

Brian checking the map with the 877m top in the distance, more snow now as we climbed higher.

The view looking back down to Glen Sheil and Am Bathach 732m in the centre of the shot.

Brian off to the right taking photos. You can see the small plateau we had to cross in the foreground.

Just after this Brian had to answer a call of nature and of course I had the camera out at the time can't remember his exact words when he realised I had the camera on the go. (but it was very head teacher-ish!)

Brian with  Sgurr an Fhuarail 987m where we would be going up in the background. We tackled the 877m top next but after you get to the top you have to drop down a gully at about 850m before the steep climb onto the 929m top.

Brian with the gully and the 929m top in the distance. We dropped down into the gully and up a ridge heading for the steep climb onto the 929m top of  Ciste Dhubh and it was covered in snow. Brian lead the way up the narrow ridge.

It's about 200m to the top from here, along a bit of a ridge which was covered in snow just to make it more interesting of course. Brian reached the top first and I was not long behind him. We had covered about 5.1/2km since leaving the hotel to the top of Ciste Dhubh 979m  and had taken around 3 hours to get here.

Munro No1

Me on top of Ciste Dhubh.

Brian on top Ciste Dhubh  with the Brothers behind him - where we were heading for next.

Stopped and had a coffee and a snack and took the usual photos. The weather was not too bad at the moment but we had a sideways snow shower as we crossed the small plateau on the way up. Got the rucksacks packed up and set off down the way we had come up but by-passing the 877m top as there was a bit of a path to the side there. When we got down to 628m we struck out south-west in the direction of our next ascent only thing is you have to go down from 979m at the top of Ciste Dhubh to about 600m and then climb all the way back up to Sgurr an Fhuarail at 987m.

  It's quite a steep descent down the south-west face with wet grass and an eroded path making it tricky in places. We stopped near the bottom of the descent for a coffee with a view of floating dead voles around us in the puddles.

The descent down Ciste Dhubh  to the small plateau with a bog trot till you climb up Sgurr an Fhuarail.

We crossed the bog and started up Sgurr an Fharail, going up the north-east flank.

  Ciste Dhubh  and the bog trot in the foreground. Quite steep at first with the burns disappearing as you get higher up. Brian powered up as usual with the old Dinosaur chugging along behind, and what's worse is he a few months old than me lol - that's what happens when you go walking with a fit gym teacher. Anyway I usually get there in the end.  We got up the 300m climb and onto a ridge leading to the summit of Sgurr an Fhuarail.

Brian heading for Sgurr an Fhuarail.

We had some fantastic views between the snow showers all around with Glen Affric to the north and the ridge along Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan  topped with snow - still to climb that one.

Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan  in the distance.

Had to drop back down onto the Brothers ridge now to 914m before the climb to Aonach Meadhoin at 1001m and our second Munro of the day. The weather had come in and we were getting pelted by hail stones so after we took photos Brian and I had to duck down behind the cairn with our backs to the north wind for shelter till they passed.

Brian at the top of Aonach Meadhoin being pelted by hail.

Me at the top of Aonach Meadhoin also being pelted by hail.

There's not much of a cairn to hide behind!  It's about 2km to the next  top dropping down to around 830m in just under a 1km and a bit of a slog up and then the fun starts. Brown trousers may be required to get to the next cairn.

Sgurr a Bhealaich Dherg  cairn and the path to it.

It's a big drop off down both sides, I will say I took it canny along here. Brian was there first of course with me timidly following behind. It wouldn't have be a problem if there was no snow or ice to slip on.

 Well did Brian not climb up on top of the cairn as you will see in the shot below!

Yes it is that narrow to get along to the cairn.

Needless to say I did not venture up on top of the cairn. Settled for kissing the top and a nice safe seat in front of it.

Me at the top of Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg  Munro No 3 for the day.

I am holding Brian's gloves down with my pole to stop them blowing away.

On the way down from Aonach Meadhoin we saw a couple of guys coming down from Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg  heading towards us but they turned off and headed out over the 806m spot height as there seemed to be a path up from the road there.

 After Brian's high jinks we headed on for Saileag about 2.7km further along the ridge.

Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg  where we descended heading for Saileag. The ridge gets narrow along here and a wee bit of scrambling is involved as you make your way along the ridge
  

Looking back to Criste Dhubh with the snow showers over it now. A wee bit to scramble round here.

You drop down to around 840m between the two and a steady climb onto Saileag.

Me on Saileag  with the 5 Sisters behind well tired and fallen in a heap with a steep descent back down to the road ahead of us.

Now this blog is called 30 seconds of fame and it's all to do with this photo above which Brian took with my camera. I will explain at the end of the blog.

Brian on the summit of Saileag at 4.01pm and just under 14km from the start at the hotel. Munro No 4 and our last for the day.

The south Glen Sheil ridge taken from the summit of Saileag below.

7 Munros in one day if you went along here. It's all down hill from here, well at least till the road.

We headed west onto Bealach an Lapain where we found a path heading down the really steep south side.

Around NH 009 145. This would be fun getting down to the road.

Brian's photo of me in the distance on the way down and the 5 sisters in the back ground.

I think this is a stunning shot of the five sisters.

Glen Sheil on the way down to the road, Brian's photo.

The path is very eroded and the wet grass was extra slippy. I saw Brian taking off at one point down at high speed when he lost grip but he soon managed to get stopped. Took it very careful after that. Around 1.4km from the Bealach to the road most of it really steep till you get down to 380m and head west round a small forest crossing a few burns and down onto the road around NH008 136.

Now I had explained to the ladies where we would be coming down onto the road. No sign of them when we got to the road but I had seen a layby off to the west as we came down. As I was done in Brian said he would go and see if they were there.

  I parked myself on a large rock and waited, about 15 minutes later the ladies arrived coming from the east, they had not quite understood where we would be coming down but luck would have it decided to drive back down just in case they had missed us. By the way there are very few places you get a phone signal along the ridge and no signal at all down at the road.

While sitting hanging out of the driver's seat I had to change all my clothes as I was wet through under the waterproofs.

 Dry clothes and comfy shoes are great after a hard days walk. After I got changed I drove down the road and retrieved Brian smiling as usual as we pulled in to pick him up.

   As it was early evening now we all decided just to go back to the hotel for a meal before we set off home.

  The meals were good but I did not enjoy it quite as much as I did the night before as I was well knackered and the thought of sitting in that Jacuzzi was now going through my brain - it would be great after a hard days walk. But it was a welcome rest to sit in the bar with a drink and eat something. While we were in the bar a couple of older local gents came in, I think to sample a few whiskies as by the time they left they were a wee bit wobbly.

       We still had the 3-1/2 hour drive to Alford to go after this as well. (Just in case you're interested the whole walk and the drive back to the hotel was 24.7km ) After our meal and a couple of pints for Brian we set off for home east to Inver Moriston, it's a good road apart from a couple of miles about the middle where you cross the river on a narrow bridge.

  It did not take us long to get to Inver Moriston and the road to Inverness, the Inverness road was quiet in the evening. We stopped at the chip shop at Drumnadrochit so I could get a cold can and I kidded the others on I was stopping for a fish supper, only to find there is a co-op next door which I am sure would be half the price for the cans.

On to Inverness and decided to follow the sat nav for a change, it took us through Inverness and up by the hospital on to the A9 and south heading home. Normally I would get a run at the big hill out of Inverness but we came out half way up. The little engine that could as I like to call my car could only manage about 45mph with the 4 of us in it up the hill. You climb for about 18 miles all told as you head south from Inverness on the A9 with a high spot at  Sloch summit at just over 410m with the railway line off to your right as you head south. I was getting tired now and Brian and I decided we would take a detour round by his favourite watering hole The Boat Inn at Boat of Garten, anyway the sat nav was pointed in the right direction for it.  We turned off the A9 for Carrbridge and a short cut to the Boat as we call it. Walking was difficult when I got out of the car after the hills today and the long drive to the Boat.  Managed to get to the bar though. I had a 1/2pint  Brian had a pint and the ladies had tea and coffee. That came to more that £12 - ouch tea and coffee are pricey in here and it was my round!

We got the sofas next to the fire and it was nice to sit and relax before the last leg home over the Lecht.

 Brian and Fiona in the Boat.

It was getting on to around 10.30 when we left and around 1hour drive home. I was glad of the pit stop before the drive home. We got to Tomintoul and turned down to take the Lecht road but when we turned on to the Lecht road it said snow gates closed and the road was closed, we were surprised about there being enough snow to close the road. A guy appeared at my window out of the dark to confirm the road was closed but we could see activity further along the road. As there were no diversion signs I had to think for a minute as where to go to get home. Nothing for it but to go to Dufftown and over the Cabrach. It's a twisty road all the way and in the dark I had to take my time, by the time we got to Alford it was after midnight. It didn't take me long to get to sleep that night. In the morning we learned why the road had been closed.

Back to why I called this blog 30 seconds of fame and the photo of me on top of Saileag.

I some times read Trail magazine and in one issue there was a competition to win a pair of  Zamberlan boots. They wanted you to send in photos of yourself knackered on a hill somewhere, I  remembered the Saileag photo of me in a heap and dug it out so I could send it in. I didn;t hear anything for ages and then an email came from Trail asking for permission to use the photo in the magazine - but I hadn't won the boots! Well as you do I gave permission for them to use the photo and I told them about this blog which the production editor then read some of.

After a few emails and a couple of months later check out the next photo.

I had got a two page spread on page 4 and 5 because Trail liked the photo so much and Brian got credited with taking the photo too.

Trail photo reproduced with permission of the production editor, trail magazine.

They say that everybody gets 15 minutes of fame in their lifetime but I reckon most people would only spend 30 seconds or so on this page so that's why it's called 30 seconds of fame.

To see the rest of Brians photos go here http://www.flickr.com/photos/44907198@N00/sets/72157626364301033/
To see the rest of my photos go here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dino60/sets/72157626364217579/

Dino60

And the answer to the hill quiz from last month is Derry Cairngorm if you haven't already worked it out.

Ben Hope By Ferry

BEN HOPE BY FERRY

2004

      In 2004 I was signed off work for a year due to the chronic pain in my wrist, I was living on prescription pain killers. After three operations I now have titanium plates welding my wrist together and 4 bones removed.

I now have a bit of pain now and again but nothing like the pain I had before.

   To pass the time when I was off I returned to hill walking after a short break of around 30 years. I found that the hard work of pounding up a hill relieved the pain. This was probably due to increased blood flow, or the fact that I was very unfit. I lost a lot of weight after starting on Tramadol pain killers as it suppresses your appetite and has some other nasty side effects as well if you stay on them for too long.

My mate had moved up to the Island of Sanday one of the Orkney isles, he had bought a run down croft to do up and I had been up for a holiday giving him a hand with some plumbing  etc. It was a bit of an adventure to get there. He had bought  an old Fergie tractor 1950ish TE20 for those in the know - petrol paraffin and a front loader which he had stored at my house till he got organised. Later I took the tractor to Aberdeen harbour and shipped it via ferry to Orkney for him.

When I got to the quay to unload it there was a modern Massie Ferguson waiting to get loaded, the little Fergie just came up to the height of the new tractor's front wheel when they were side by side. The little Fergie was the new Massie Ferguson's granddad, anyway due to the cost of shipping the front loader was left at my place.  Later on I would arrange to get it up to Orkney.

I also had a hay turner that my mate and I had done a swap of stuff for so a trip to Orkney was on the cards at some point. I had an old trailer made out of a caravan chassis that I used for shifting stuff when I had my plumbing business. Now the cheapest way to go at that time was to drive up to Gill's bay on the top of Scotland and take the ferry to St Margaret's Hope then drive to Kirkwall and catch the second ferry to Sanday. After some arranging I was all set to go.This involved being at the right place at the right time or I'd miss the second ferry.But due to the load I had on the trailer I decided to take the car and trailer on the ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall. Only thing being the ferry sailed at 5pm and got to Kirkwall at 11pm which missed the sailings to Sanday.

Options - I could sleep in the car or stump up for a hotel. - "Sod the car".

I loaded the trailer with the Fergie loader upside down lying on the base and then put the hay turner ( a Banford Wuffler)  over the rails and the loader bucket in underneath the turner and a set of pallet forks squeezed in too. I roped up the load but was not all that happy with it so plan B got the arc welder out and welded the hay turner to the metal rails, remember we were going on a North sea ferry which can get very rough so I did not want the load shifting at sea or on the road either. Put an old cover over everything and roped it all down. 

It's a right shove in when you are departing at 5pm. Messed about most of the day till it was time to leave for Aberdeen harbour.   This was a heavy load and had to keep the speed down or it would swing all over the place.

The distance to Aberdeen is 25 miles. I met a cop car going the other way at Dunecht and saw them shaking their heads at my load and carrying on past probably thinking I was a farmer on my way to the mart and giving me a wide birth. I got to the docks without incident for a change and got into the queue for loading onto the ferry,

The Hjaltland is the ferry between Aberdeen, Orkney and Shetland. There are some scary stories about sea crossings on the internet about it if you want to go look them up.  

  

Hijaland

The time came to load and there were a few wise cracks from the crew about my load but I got on and parked in the hold. They chain the vehicles down on this crossing to stop them from moving. I made my way up to the passenger area and found a seat till we left at 5pm and the ship set sail for Orkney. I had been on this ferry once before coming home from Orkney on a very rough sea crossing overnight. Not pleasant! I don't  travel well on ferries in rough seas.

On that overnight journey I had a sleeping seat a bit like a plane seat reclined a bit. Through the night the ship got tossed around and developed a pattern of movement. The ship would rise up in the front and fall quite a bit and once it got too bad you heard the stabilisers coming out from the side of the ship to calm the rocking, didn't  work that well and this went on all night so I did not sleep much and felt sick the whole trip. The ship seemed to be able to go faster when the stabilisers were in so I think they kept them in till it was really bad. When day light came in I went outside and stood watching another freight ferry that had left Kirkwall earlier that evening. I did not realise how big the waves were till I saw them going over the deck of the other ferry.  The p.a. crackled into life announcing that the ferry could not enter Aberdeen harbour for another hour as there would not be enough depth of water in the harbour, just what you want when you're seasick. I spent the rest of the trip outside standing up with a cool breeze and seaspray in my face. I felt a bit better when I was outside, not much though.

When we finally docked I walked round to the bus station and got a bus to my work where I had left my car. It was tea time so I joined my work mates for a fly cup. That did not go down well as I was still rocking from the overnight trip and my bosses told me my skin was greenish. Couldn't eat much and found it hard to drink tea I got the car and went home to bed for a while. Took about 2-3 days to fully recover from that trip as you might have guessed I was a tad apprehensive about being back on the Hijaland heading north this time to Kirkwall.

An hour later after leaving Aberdeen we sailed past Peterhead in a flat calm North Sea (phew!!). I decided to go and get something for my tea, there were a few choices of places to eat but none that cheap. A captive lot on here. There was a posh looking place but after reviewing the menu I did not have an arm and leg to pay the bill. Found a cheaper place, fish and chips and a pot of tea for under a tenner. Well I was at sea might as well have fish and chips and it would also kill some time.  After tea I explored the passenger area of the ship and found I could get out on top at the stern. These big ships generate strong wind over them and down the sides, so it was a tad windy and cold sitting on the roof, I didn't stay there that long and returned inside. We had sailed past Fraserburgh and were out to sea now heading for Kirkwall. A few slot machines and plenty of bars on board to pass the time.

As we sailed north on a nice clear night and still calm on the sea you could make out Wick off in the distance. So I just sat around looking out the windows, watched the sunset over the southern Orkney island as we sailed by. But it was dark by the time we docked in Kirkwall at 11.30pm. The passengers for Orkney disembarked quite quickly and it was not long before I was driving round Kirkwall harbour heading for the Shore Hotel on the Quay.The Hijaland sailed on to Shetland overnight from Orkney.

I parked the car near the hotel  which I had booked in advance, went into the hotel and a girl was waiting in reception for a few passengers off of the Hijaland. She gave me my room key and I offered to pay the bill but to my surprise the girl said there was no one about who could take payment so just pay in the morning. That would never happen in a mainland hotel, the first thing you get is give me your credit card in them. Anyway I found my room upstairs and had to listen to the disco in the bar till about 1am then it was the Land of nod till about 6am. Got up and had a shower, but breakfast wasn't served till 7.30am so watched the t.v. till then. Fantastic choice on the menu even kippers or a full Scottish breakfast if you wanted it, I had a light breakfast due to the next 2 hour ferry crossing in 2 hours or so. After I finished breakfast I again asked about paying the bill. "Just see them at the desk" came back. I went back to my room to watch some t.v. to kill time. About 9am I packed up and went down to the reception to pay the bill. Once again. "Oh there is no one here that can take money, we will just post the bill to you". Very trusting in Orkney - I couldn't believe it! Went to the car with my bag and dumped it inside.

The car and trailer at Orkney harbour. 

Now you see why I welded the Wuffler on. Lol. By the way I took the Wuffler wheels off and put them on the trailer as it would not sit on top with them on.

I had an hour or so to kill so I walked around Kirkwall window shopping as I was on a budget as usual, after spending a fortune window shopping I had to go and queue for the ferry to Sanday on the Quay in front of the hotel. Ro-Ro ferry to Sanday and a good bit smaller than the  Hijaland, they still chain the cars down though.The Earl Suguard came rattling into the harbour and it looked like a hand brake turn into the terminal - those guys don't mess about. Loaded up quickly and they were off again.

Earl Suguard

They loaded up the ferry and we were off sailing to Sanday  and it was a nice calm crossing again thankfully. The locals are very chatty and the time passed quickly  2 hours later we docked at Sanday.Just after 12 noon now I drove off to my mate's house which is about 2 miles from the dock.

He killed himself laughing when he saw the trailer. "Get the kettle on" was my reply. Now on my last trip here when I was helping him do the plumbing we had shared his caravan. A 16 foot van tied down with big rocks to stop it blowing over, with a bed either end after you rearranged the seats to give you beds and the only toilet was down at the dock 2 miles away. However he had finished the living room and had a bed settee in it for me to sleep in now. No door to the house yet or into the living room, where I would be sleeping! After lunch we set about unloading the trailer, the angle grinder was required to cut the welding to release the hay turner. We dragged the loader out from under the hay turner and fitted it up with his Fergie tractor. I got the old Fergie going and used the loader to lift off the hay turner, pulled the trailer out of the way and dropped it to the ground. Still no toilet fitted. My mate had built a septic tank since the last time I was here but could not get the old tractor to start to lift the flag stones on top. Took me 5 minutes to get it going much to his annoyance. I had given him a set of pallet forks for the back which I had brought with me, so we set about putting the flag stone in place that afternoon and used the loader bucket to cover the flagstone over with sand. The place is called Sanday for a reason. Next job was fit the toilet with a bucket to flush (a small luxury) pity about no doors in front of it, just sit and smile at the passing sheep. He had an electric shower out in the shed so we got that connected up too. A shower and a toilet what luxury, now all I needed was a door to my bedroom. We went to the pub for tea and a few games of pool.
  On return a door was found and fitted to the living room. The air in the Orkney islands makes you sleep like a baby. In the morning I had a nice shower in the freezing cold shed so didn't stand about drying long. Messed about at my mates all day doing some more plumbing for him, then back to the pub for tea of course.
  Day 3 - I planned to catch the early ferry back to Kirkwall so I was up sharp to get down to the dock. The trailer would be staying on Sanday as we had done a swap for his trailer which I still had at home. My mate did not keep a lot of food in his caravan because he tended to eat everything that was there and put on weight quickly. The only person I know that could eat a 2ltr tub of ice-cream at one go, however the second day he did the same again, he did regret it and did not stray far from the toilet that day.  Didn't go back for another 2 ltr tub after the second one I wonder why???

So nothing for breakfast in the cupboard apart from a tin of Stag Chilli, I had sampled this tinned chilli on the last trip and told him I wasn't eating that dog food again.  Don't panic food served on the ferry, phew. Fantastic bacon rolls and piping hot tea or coffee in the galley, as soon as it opened after we sailed I was down there for my bacon rolls and tea. Yum yum. 2 Hours later we docked at Kirkwall and I drove off onto the quay. No time to mess about I had to get to St Margaret's Hope for my next ferry to the mainland. About 22km south on South Ronaldsay.  Had to sit on the speed limit to get there on time. When I arrived the MV Claymore was docking after sailing from Gill's bay on the mainland. I had plenty of time really to get there. This boat was built in 1955 and has been tarted up quite a few times. I think it was a Clyde steamer originally and the private company that ran this crossing had bought it about 15th hand, it made 3 crossings a day about 1.1/2 hours across. Now there is a super fast cat that does the crossing in one hour.

MV Claymore.

Had lunch on board as we crossed and I could not believe it - a third calm crossing. Old Poseidon was looking after me these trips. We arrived at Gill's Bay on the north of Scotland and disembarked to a queue of cars and lorries waiting to board. Back on the mainland and heading west to Ben Hope. Only thing it's about 116km from Gill's Bay across the top of  Scotland to Ben Hope. I am sure it didn't look that far on the map!!  No motorways up here and it's single track in places too.

You pass the Castle of Mey which was the Queen Mother's Scottish residence when she was alive.  I think Charlie has it now and onto Thurso, a big town. When I left school I worked up there for a summer at Sire in Stratnaver further along the road. We had a day trip to Thurso a big event then. I remember buying my first record a Gene Pitney album in Woolworths. Not a lot of choice in 1976 what's worse is I think I still have it now in 2012! You can get a ferry from Thurso to Stromness on Orkney as well, that's a good one to go on as it sails past the Old Man of Hoy.
    Dounreay Nuclear Power plant is up here. One of the first nuclear plants built, up here away from any major population. Not much after here, Sutherland is the least populated part of Scotland. On to Bettyhill and one of Scotland's best beaches. Next comes Toung and a causeway built over the Kyle of Toung. There were so many Mckays working on it when it was built it got nicknamed the McKay causeway. As you drive through Toung you get one of the best hill views around, with Ben Loyal to the south, not a Munro at 765m but a stunning sight anyway.

    

Ben Loyal

It's quite an old photo, I am sure you would find this view on Flicker somewhere.It would be worth climbing it some day but a bit of a run to get to it.Only about 14km to the start of Strath More and the road to Ben Hope.

Ben Hope with Loch Hope to the right.

You start the walk from Alltnacaillich sheep pens which are about 15km down this road. If you are coming from the south it's just past Dun Dornaigil Broch.

Dun Dornaigil Broch  I don't think you will miss it. By the way there is another one further up the Strath.

The walk - yes there is a hill walk in this story!!

It must have been about 4 pm when I started this walk, I had stopped and bought some grub for the climb in Thurso and I had taken a small rucksack with me. Parked at the sheep pens and crossed the road. Took route one from the sheep pens, across a boggy and steepish bit through heather. Just to cheer you up you start at 20m above sea level and have to climb to 927m. Its about 6.5km to the top, steep to start then on to a plateau and a steeper climb to the top it's quite an easy walk. A fittish person would be up and back in 4 hours. I crossed a burn Allt na Caillich which has a nice waterfall at around the 200m contour and came on the path, a rocky well worn path coming up from south of where I started. Got up onto the plateau  it was an easy walk across the plateau and as you climb out of the Strath you start to see over the surrounding hills. When you get to about 400m it gets steeper but there is a path up or at least there was in 2004. The steepest bit is from about 560m to around 750m , a wee bit of puffing and panting required up here and then an easy walk to the top. On a clear day you can see for miles with Orkney to the north visible. Had a bite to eat and a drink at the summit as it was tea time anyway and took a few photos of the views.

      

Trig point on Ben Hope 927m.

I think that's Ben Loyal in the distance.

Looking north with Loch Hope down below - you really don't want to go off down that way. Climbers might go that way down, straight down that is. If you are up here in the clag take extra care which way you leave the summit. I would recommend south if you want to get home in one piece.

The view to the west, a tad rocky here.

Now the reason I wanted to climb Ben Hope was - I had came up with a cunning plan that I would climb the  4 points of the compass, Ben Hope being the most northerly, Mount Keep being the most westerly, Ben Lomond being the most Southerly and  Sgurr na Banachdaich on Skye the most westerly. All climbed now apart from Sgurr na Banachdaich due to the fact I chickened out 30m from the top. The 2000 foot drop each side of the narrow ledge I was standing on at the time in An Dorus had a bit to do with it also the 10 foot vertical climb out of An Dorus. 

For all those who did the four point of the compass charity climb taking in Ben More on Mull it's not the farthest west Munro, Sgurr na Banachdaich on Skye is 7.5km further west and a lot harder to climb. Keep up the charity work though.

Well here I was on top of the most northerly Munro on a nice clear evening with good visibility all round what more could you ask for? ( better grub would have been nice) It's all downhill from here.

As Andy Pandy used to say " time to go home ", showing my age here.

I set off down, now it's a bad idea to start jogging when you are on a steep slope going down, I don't know how those fell runners do it. What a sod it is to stop.

Had to turn sideways so it was flat to get stopped. After running down to the plateau bit I took it easier and walked after that. I was trying to make good time as I still had a 190 mile drive to get home and there was a fair bit of single track road through Sutherland. I met a woman coming up as I was descending. It's very rare that you don't meet someone on a Munro now. I think that out of the 149 + Munros I have climbed on only 2 of them I did not meet someone and one of them was when I was with Graham.  Anyway we chatted for a short while and I carried on down the path, passing the water fall I decided to just follow the path right down to the road, you will never guess what is at the roadside. A great big sign saying the path to Ben Hope, how did I miss that? Hobbled across the tarred road as my feet were quite sore after the climb still 50mt or so to the car. I think I was up and down in about 4 hours possibly even a bit less. Some people climb Ben Hope and Ben Kilbreck in the same day, that would be fit people then.Got into the car and changed my footwear ready for the drive home. 

Now as you will see from the picture above of me at Dun Dornaigil Broch  in 2001 with Ben Hope in the back ground it's a wide road South (not). We met some cows on a trip up here in 2001 and they just looked at the Jeep and carried on standing in the middle of the road, don't think they saw many cars. I had to get out and shoo them off the road to get past.The next picture has nothing to do with this walk, it also happened on our 2001 trip around the top of Scotland. But it was quite amusing so I stuck it in as it happened up near here.

On the road from Durness South.

This bright lamb had seen the grown ups jumping the cattle grid and thought it would give it a go.

It didn't make it, we came on it legs down each side of the metal bars bleating it's head off. As it was a road block I had to get out and lift it out so we could pass. A trick sheep have is to lie on their backs and wriggle across cattle grids. The drive home- slow at first down to Altnaharra where the road improves a bit. Altnaharra has recorded some of the coldest temperatures in Scotland through the winters.  The school here had one deaf person attending so the whole school learned sign language so they would not be left out. Excitement as I was now on an A road - but the A836 still has single track in places. About 7 miles south of Altnaharra you come on one of the most remote Inns in Scotland, The Crask Inn.I am sure people have been snowed in here for days in the past. I've yet to sample its beverages I might some day. There is a hotel further North called the Garvult Hotel it's just about as remote a place but I have sampled the beverages there. NC 781 386 grid if you want to find it , West of Kinbrace on the B871 - if it's still open. Between Altnaharra and the Crask Inn off to the East is Ben Kilbreck another Munro. Take your wellies on that walk - more in a later blog. Not much between the Inn and Lairg which is about 15.5 miles further down the road it's a market town and a good place to sell Highland cattle and sheep.The road improves from here to two lanes. The railway stops at Lairg and the road and railway follow each other down to Invershin where you meet the road coming from the far North West of Scotland.
    On to Bonnar Bridge and across the big metal bridge to Ardgay there used to be a cafe here but I never saw it open. You meet the railway again here heading for Tain. A couple of miles down the road you can opt to go over the Struie to Alness cutting off some of the journey but it's back to single track road in places. There used to be a hotdog van park 1/2 way over but that was years ago don't know if it will still be there. A narrow twisting run down to Alness and onto what seems like a motorway - the road to Inverness with duel carriageway too! The road was very quiet and I made good time down to Inverness and the A96 home. I arrived home about 10.30pm but could have been 11.30pm can't quite remember, knackered after my long journey and my reward for this epic journey a f****g double migraine. I just went to my bed to sleep.- and you thought it had a happy ending. Lol.

Dino60

Some comments would be nice, ta.

 

    

         

Knoydart

Knoydart 14-8-08

    Knoydart  a remote piece of Scotland on the west coast with no roads to it. The only way to get there is by boat, helicopter or walk.

The black square is where I would be going and the little tent is where I camped.

The red flags are the Munros I have still to climb. Blue dots the ones I have climbed.

Day One.

   I had been wanting to go to  Knoydart for a while but just never got round to it. Itchy feet got the better of me and I had taken holidays this week. Usual weather for holidays, yep raining. Had been checking the weather forecast, BBC in those days to see how it would pan out. A nice day coming in Thursday of this week on the long range forecast.  Where to go - Skye or Knoydart?  eeny meeny miney mo. Knoydart it would be then. Supplies needed so a trip to Tiso in Aberdeen to get camp food then. There were two types -  wet and dry, sounds like sandpaper. The wet ready meal Wayfayrer foods is a boil in the bag job. Had them on my Fisher Field 6 blog  with spider on the side if you have read it and the dried power meals in the bag. Bloke in Tiso said he had had them and they were ok, Hmm? More about that later. I decided on the dry as it would be lighter and I was thinking light is best - or is it? Anyway I bought 2 supposedly delicious powdered meals. It's  a bit of a job knowing what to take. Oh and I bought a £166 jacket in the sale too. North Face high vent that will be good on a summer day. Well I needed a new jacket. Spent 1/2an hour deciding which jacket to buy 30 seconds on the food. There was money off the High Vent so being a canny Scot, I love a bargain. What else to take food wise was another problem. Remember the frozen pies from the last blog, well that had worked out ok so I would take them this trip and the old fall back cup 'a' soup. Alpen for breakfast and a 2ltr papous  for carrying water with a 1/2 ltr plastic bottle to fetch water and a few other things. It would only be a two day walk I was reckoning. I never was good at estimating walk times. The old tent with a proper sleeping bag this time and not that 7 oz useless one I took on the long walk. Iodine water sterilising kit now banned by those *******ots  in Brussels. Messy stuff Iodine, more about that later.

  So I was all set to go. My rucksack would be heavy. Avon Skin So Soft was around now so I would take that as a midge repellent and the rest of the camping gear, stove etc.Weather window for Thursday 14-8-08. Excited when I heard the forecast Wednesday. I would leave for Knoydart 5am on the Thursday.  I was off, 5am heading for the Lecht over to Aviemore and the Fort William road to Spean Bridge. Turning north on the Inverness road past the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge and  onto Invergarry and a left turn on the Skye road, it was tempting to carried onto Skye! its just over 8km to the left turn off for Kinloch Hourn and the walking path to Knoydart. Something like 30km to Kinloch Hourn along this narrow road. I had never been along this road before but I will be back some day as there are a pile of Munros along here. Nothing too interesting till you come on the dam at the east end of Loch Quoich - it's impressive. As you come on it you are level with the bottom of the dam and the road climbs up the north side till you are level with the top of it. Sorry no photo of it. I am sure there will be one on Flicker somewhere if you do a search. About 5km or so past the dam you come on a very long single track bridge, good place to play chicken with the other cars.

Here  is a photo of it I took when Graham and I walked The South Glensheil ridge to the north of Loch Quoich. A couple of Munros can be accessed from around the bridge. I stopped along the loch a bit to take a few photos with my trusty phone which I now had. Another weight saving over film camera. Not as good photos though.

Looking east

Looking west Loch Quoich

Knoydart that a way.

   About 7km to Kinloch Hourn from here and a very interesting narrow road down to Kinloch Hourn. Its like a bob sleigh track without the snow in summer. Could be a sod in the winter I imagine  You either have a 2 foot high wall or big rocks alongside the road on both sides and it twists and turns all the way down to the loch. On reaching the bottom I found the car parks. Short stay and long stay, Long stay it would be then. Wandered over to the B&B to find the owner to pay for car park. It did not cost much then £2.50 something  like that but the bloke seemed surprise that I was only going to be one night, "Most folk book two nights" he told me. Hmm it's not that big a walk is it? Paid the man and got to use his facilities. Went back to the car and sorted out my kit to go. A nice warm day today. I thought I'd put on my new "high vent" jacket so I don't have the extra weight in my rucksack which was pretty heavy anyway.

The start.

Looking back to the car park and B&B at the end of Loch Hourn.

Knoydart this way. As you will see on the photos it was 11.52 am

  Lovely tarred road I wander how far this goes? Well do you see that jutting out rock just ahead that's how far it goes. Foot path from there. I did not keep the jacket on for long too damn hot -great more weight in the rucksack. Plod mode now, as you round the corner it's quite a narrow path beside the loch, just a couple of feet up from it. A nice sunny day and the damn midge were at it now, a bath in Avon skin so soft kept them at bay for a bit but as it was so hot you sweat a lot and that kind of washes it off. A few walkers around and folk in their boats coming down the loch.

The boats seemed to be taking a funny route and going very slow too. As I walked along the path one of the boats came sailing by, looked like where I should have been sitting on - a nice slow boat to Knoydart. But oh well I'd just have to walk.

A few walkers around as I walked along. The lads in the photo had walked  over from Glen Sheil somewhere. How they carried enough food I don't know. The papous I had my water in had a lovely taste to it "(not)" - iodine, nothing for it but to put up with it. It's handy having a tube to suck the water out you can bring to the front so you don't have to take off the rucksack for a drink. But I never seem to be able to get enough water out of them.

As I walked along surrounded by midge another little boat came down the loch.

Path had got closer to the loch again and I got a better photo.

The path ahead.

        Getting a bit peckish now decided to stop for a brew and a snack. I had come on this burn coming down off the hills and there was a wee island in the middle. A nice place for a snack, jumped over onto the little island and got the stove out to brew up and I had taken sandwidges to eat, they would not last long. To my surprise there were no midge here must have been the running water coming round both sides of me, brill a rest from the little buggers. After my lunch I jumped back over to the track as there was a bridge just up a bit to get across the burn. I met a couple of walkers who were getting eaten by the midge, a young woman and a bloke. Not sure where they came from Germany possibly, anyway I introduced them to Avon Skin so soft as they had not taken any repellent and were suffering for it. Tee shirts and hungry female midge don't go. The girl was very happy now but I don't know for how long. Do you see that big lump ahead in the previous photo at  the left hand side of the loch? Well the path climbs over it off to the left. The path was quite rutted on this bit with a couple of burns to get across and the first real up so far. The German couple and myself had been passing each other now and again as we went along the path.

  I saw a big bird flying quite high above the loch but I was not sure if it was an Golden eagle or not. As I only had my phone to take photos it would not zoom in.

  

Not long after this I got to the high point on the path and started back down towards the loch again.

  A few walkers just ahead of me. Pretty big stones down through here, but at least it was down hill. Quite over grown now on the path. The rucksack was damn heavy, stopped a few times to take the weight off. As you get to the bottom of this bit you are about 1/2 way to Barisdale from Kinloch Hourn and Runival comes into sight. The Germans disappeared around here think they went to Runival.

Runival.

The path got interesting after here as it sort of disappeared into the undergrowth.

Pub quiz - can you spot the path? It's straight ahead through the middle of the photo.  A bit of up and down on the path now, sun still shining and midge still at it too. Not sure how many times I clarted myself in Skin so soft.

  The path improved after here and stayed quite close to the loch, just me about now everybody else had gone somewhere else.

Looking back along the loch to the east.

  It took me 2 hours to walk from Runival to Barisdale about 4km, pretty slow. Probably due to the heavy pack and the sun beating down. Never was a fast hill walker.

  Barrisdale and my first sight of one of the Munros I would hope to climb Ladhar Bheinn. A very impressive hill.

  When I saw this I wondered how I would get up. There are a few routes up it. Beach ahead - yes a beach with a sign saying no camping on the beach. Must have been worried a big wave washed you away or something - not really there is a campsite just along a bit and a few buildings. Some you can rent to stay in but don't forget the milk if you do as it's a hell of a hike to the nearest shop. I don't even know where the nearest shop would be.

  Had a walk down on the beach as you do, soft sand nice under the feet. Had better boots now with harder soles than I did on the long walk.

Barrisdale Beach

   A wee bit stony. Carried on along the path and met the local gamekeeper I assume,  on his ATV said hello did not chat. He lived here in a house just up from the beach. Then I came on the campsite, a goat would be  handy here as the grass in the campsite was about 3 foot high. Only one tent here. Thought about pitching the tent here but as it was about 4pm what would I do till sleeping time? So I kept walking. Just after Barrisdale I met two guys who had been up Ladhar Bheinn and did not have very much kit with them. They told me they had come over from Arnisdal on Bill the Boats ferry and he would be waiting at the jetty, oops forgot to tell you about that, more on day two.  Bill the boat sounds like a good idea to me. The two lads gave me his phone number which I put into my mobile. "Phone early before 8am as once he's on the loch you won't get him". The two lads shouted back to me as they set off for the jetty to meet Bill the Boat. There are a couple of buildings futher along at Ambraigh one of them is a bothy you can stay in or at least it was then. There was a wooden bridge over the river before you come to Ambraigh, handy. You could easily bike this track as it was quite wide for the ATV and trailer I suppose. Nice and flat for a bit more and its all up from here being sea level over 3,000 feet to the tops and there are 3 up this path. Climbed up the track for a while, slowly of course  up Mam Bairrsdale.

  Decided to stop and fill up with water at a stream I came on. This would involve iodine and a second part which was a neutraliser. The only time  I have had so much iodine staining on my hand since is when they removed 4 bones out of my wrist as the German surgeon was iodine happy. What a mess and a right sod to get off, at least I was sterilised. Wet ones to the rescue. The top of the iodine bottle had been loose, good job I had it in a plastic bag in a container. However I did manage to get water in to my papoose tasted even worse now but what can you do in the middle of Knoydart? A fair few sheep about here so you could have sheep tea if you liked. Onward and upward the path. Climbed up to around 400m and decided to have something to eat and a brew. Little burn 30 foot or so off the path so I nipped down to it to get water for the tea and my freeze dried ready meal. That bloke in Tiso  told me these meals were edible. OMG 10 packets of cup a soup in a big bag with bits innit - no that's a insult to cup a soup, just add hot water and stir and you end up with a version of cup a soup you could use to stick dentures with. That got spat out quick. I was like a little kid when they don't like food, mouth wide open trying to heave it out as quick as possible. "yuck" to make matters worse I had two of the damn things. Never mind I had my tried and tested frozen pies. Unearthed them out of the rucksack and opened the container. Now remember it was a very hot day and I had had the rucksack on and off a fair few times. The pastry was mush and the filling, 18% meat in a Scotch pie, no one has been brave enough to ask what the other 82% is as far as I know we just eat them and not worry about it,  the so called meat was disgusting a sort of grey mass like something out of an episode of Dr Who. 50 % of my food inedible now, oh well just have a cup a soup and a biscuit. Undeterred I carried on up the path to the belach at 450m and the sort of centre of the Munros.  What to do carry on up the path and hope I get 1/2 way to Meal Buidhe the farthest away Munro or pitch the tent here on the bealch. It would have been around 7pm now and dark around 9 in August. I did not think I would have time to get 1/2 way over and I was quite tired so I decided to camp here for the night. Found a spot with a couple of mounds each side for shelter incase the wind got up in the night and pitched the tent with a midge entourage of course.

Camp site at NG 856 017

Couple of hours to dark took a few photos of the surrounding hills and played dodge the midge, they had formed into little clouds around the belach and did not seem to be moving from their spot. Of course there was one right in front of the tent waiting for their bed time snack - not if I can help it!

Ladhar Bheinn off to the west would be Munro No3 tomorrow.

Meall Buidhe would be Munro No2 tomorrow.

Munro No1 would be Luinne Bheinn tomorrow. I messed about taking photos waiting for the sun to set there were some good views all around as it had been a nice day.

The view to the north from my campsite at 7.56pm, Mount pointy look Graham from the south.

The view to the south from campsite 7.45pm and the sun beginning to set.

Not much to do but take in the views till sunset.

  Sun going down in the west. Dived into the tent as quick as I could to get past the midge. Then played the favourite game of highland campers swat the midge that managed to get into the tent. This game usually goes on a while.

 Darkness fell and I got myself into the sleeping bag in the PJ's, my wee bit of luxury. Nice to get out of the clothes I had on all day. I was pretty hot from my hard days walk and it took me a while to get cooled down. A tad windy through the night, no - not that kind of wind actual wind outside. The tent canvas was ruffling  most of the night so I slept on and off through the night.

Day two.

     Woke up about 5am and had an appointment outside. Opened the tent zip to find 20 foot visibility outside - great. The mist had come down in the night and it had been raining too. Appointment completed went back into my tent and jumped back into sleeping bag. Tried to kip but as usual once I am awake that's me awake all day. Did not take a book or anything to read with me. Listen to all the music on my phone including all the ring tones to pass the time. Found a game on it but the little screen was not great to see. Looked out at 6am and it had cleared, yahoo. Time to get up and have the breakfast. No catastrophes here Alpen with powdered milk made with cold water this time. I decided to leave the tent up with all the stuff I would not need in it, sleeping bag etc as I would be coming back this way. Left a note just in case someone thought the tent was a lost persons. Did not know if that was a good idea or not. As it would let tea leaf's know as well. A bit wet so I had the jacket  and gators on when I set off east up the path to Luinne Bheinn, a real bog trot now and quite steep.

There were old iron fence posts sticking out of the rocks and the path followed them. That's not the top you see in the distance in the photo if I remember right. The button for the camera on the phone stopped working after this photo due to the wet. What I did not know at the time was that the centre button also made the phone camera work too. Which was a bit annoying as I came on some impressive stags further up the path. Rucksack was a good bit lighter with out the tent and it made the plod through the mud easier. Onward and upward to the 600m contour and turned east for the steep climb to the top of  Luinne Bheinn. I had thought about dumping the rucksack here to make it easer to climb but I was in the habit of taking a picture of my rucksack at the summits in those days. So I took it hoping the camera would start working again. Steep climb up through this bit. I got a text at 850m up, well darn me I have a phone signal. Phoned home as you do to let them know I was ok and had a bright idea. Phone Bill the boat and see if I could get his boat out after I bag these 3 Munros.

I could almost see the top at 939m about 100m up and along a bit.

Well Bill answered the phone and I asked about a trip to Kinloch Hourn from Barisdale. Yes he could take me but he would need £35 for the trip. I looked in my wallet £30 in it. "Sorry I don't have enough cash with me" I replied. He had asked where I was and I had told him "just shy off the top on Luinne Bheinn". After a bit of humming and heying on Bills part he came away with. Now don't repeat this to a soul. I am picking up some cyclists at Kinloch Hourn  around 11pm and if you can make it down to the jetty for 10am I'll take you for a tenner. A bit of a debate between us, me asking for a bit more time so I could bag this Munro, but nope he had an appointment to keep. "Ok" I said. Bill would wait 20 min or so to see if I turned up or not before he carried on down the loch. Bugger have I time to get to the top or not. Thought about it but the main decider was the camera not working and I had a fair old hike down to the jetty. The rain came on as I made my way back down through the mud heading for the tent. I went as fast as I safely could down the hillside in the rain.

About 2km back to the tent and another 5km down to the jetty at Barisdale. Must have started down about 8.10am with 7km to go. This would take a bit of doing. The deer were still there as I made my way down and it was getting slippier now with the rain and a very rutted path. When I got to the tent I still had to pack up every thing and take the tent down and then the rain came on heavier so I went to put on my waterproof trousers which had full length zips up each trouser leg. The first zip burst as I was pulling it up but I still had the pop fasteners to keep them shut - well sort of shut. Well blow me did the other side not do the same both zips buggered, I hadn't time to worry about it though.  Took the tent down in 5 minutes flat and set off for Barisdale with my hood up as it was raining even heavier now.  Middle of summer in Knoydart not that cold and me in my new winter jacket, yes it turned out to be the best winter jacket I have had. Opened the pit zips to try to cool down a bit. It worked a bit, not much though. The cloud came down over the hill I had just been nearly up. So I was not too disappointed as the rest of the day would have been spent in the rain and cloud if I had carried on.  I met a bloke just down from the campsite, who had stayed in the bothy the night. He had come up for a look see but I am not sure how much further up the hill he went.

Best description of Knoydart, wet, wet, wet and not the pop group.

Still raining and me hot and bothered in my winter jacket and having to keep shutting the poppers on my waterproof trousers as I descended down the track. But I was making good time.

Where I had to get to at the end of the beach in the distance. Took this photo on the way up.

Bairrsdale beach from Beinn Segritheall 7.5km away at 15x zoom. The jetty is just out of shot on the leftside of the photo.

    Got down onto the flat and over the wooden bridge to the campsite, where a bloke emerged from a tent and went into the building, I assumed there were toilet and wash facilities for the campsite in there. Did not chat just said hello as you do and pushed on for the jetty. Got to the jetty about 9.45am and no boat. Rain had stopped and a few of my wee pals were out to snack again. Put the kettle on the stove for a cuppa and as it was boiling Bill's boat came into the jetty and up onto the beach. Bill came over and said "You got here in good time". I replied. "I was on a mission". I was going to stop brewing up but he said we had a bit of time so carry on, so I did. Presented him with the other dry food bag which I did not open to give to some poor soul who was starving and they would have to be to eat that cr-p. Bill said he had eaten them in the past. How unlucky could he get. After my cup of tea and an Alpen bar I had been saving we jumped into the boat.

 Life jacket on I sat down with some water splashing around the bottom of boat. We set off down the loch like a whippet this boat had a powerful outboard motor on the back. I don't know if it was the wind from the speed or the relief of not having to walk all the way back to Kinloch Hourn through the soaking wet undergrowth but it brought a tear to my eye - must have been the wind?  We rattled down the loch having a conversation at shouting level due to the outboard motor and in no time we were approaching Kinloch Hourn. Now if you remember yesterday the boats were going slow and taking a funny path. Well I found out why. As we approached Bill slowed right down to a snails pace and lifted the out board up so it was just in the water. A shallow channel was the problem, he had smashed a propeller here once before and was making damned sure it did not happen again.

 I asked him what he would do if it did break and he produced a spare propeller out of a box which he could put on if the need arose. Took a 5 minutes or so to get to the pier at the road.  I paid Bill and said cheerio and I walked along to the car. That boat ride was bliss compared to walking through the soaking wet undergrowth on the path.

  Some bad news for you if you were thinking of hiring Bill and his boat. He has packed up now, not enough regular work and the high cost of petrol made it uneconomical for him.

The End of the Arnisdale ferry locally known as Bill the Boat.

The boat was lying just along from here on the shore for sale when we visited Arnisdale on  17/9/11, to bag  Beinn Segritheall. See earlier Blog.

    Back at the car the rain had stopped and I was wet but I had clean clothes in the car so I got all the kit off and into my dry clothes. Nothing for it now but to drive home around about a 150 mile drive. Quite stiff now from this mornings jaunt down to the jetty.  As I was going up the bobsleigh run climbing out of Kinloch Hourn I met the cyclists that Bill had come to pick up. They were quite spread out and a there were a few of them too. Drove on past Loch Quoich and the chicken run bridge, a few walkers cars lying at the side of the road as I drove along. A bit hungry I decided to look for some where to get some lunch. I came on the Tomdoun Hotel and went in for lunch and a couple of beers. Alcohol free Becks as I was driving. Had a nice Steak and Ale pie for lunch - a proper meal.

 Quite full after lunch I set off for home via Inverness just for a change and down the A96 to Alford.

Unpacked the car of all the wet gear which made the house look like a laundry hung over all sorts to get it dry. The tent was hung up out side - it took a couple of days before everything dried out.

I was not that disappointed at not bagging any Munros on the trip and it was good reconisance for the return.

 I am hoping to return this year 2012 to Knoydart and have purchased a secret weapon to help me and who ever is with me, probably Graham and/or Brian but they will need their own cause there's no way two are getting into it. it's a Bivi bag, and for those who don't know what a Bivi bag is best description would be a body bag you can sleep in! It only weighs 600g and you just pull it out of your pack and jump in I got a Rab Accent and it has a built in midge net.

I am in it here and it's upside down just to show the name well not really I just hadn't read the instructions at this point.

Well that's all folks.

Next blog will be in March not sure where yet, you will have to wait and see.

Please leave comments.

Dino60